Collection search - Eco-tourists: "If you watch closely you will see the ice move beneath us," says Leo, a 42-year-old Inuit man from the community of Arctic Bay. For weeks, he has a job for eco-tourists, who bounce along on a sled behind his snowmobile over the transforming floe edge of Lancaster Sound, looking for wildlife. Three female narwhals, only their backs briefly visible, have just passed within 200 meters of where I stand. The only sounds come from water splashing on ice and, awe-inspiringly, from whales breathing

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